Inside an old train depot in downtown Covington is one of the northshore’s best dual personality restaurants. By day, Lola is a bustling sandwich shop that serves homemade soups, sandwiches and salads. By Friday night, it transforms into a quaint contemporary creole bistro. The owners are Keith Frentz and Nealy Crawford-Frentz. Two young and talented Johnson and Wales trained chefs who were just recently honored at Louisiana Cookin’ Magazine’s 8th annual “Chefs to Watch” awards last month.
I was fortunate enough to attend the awards dinner this year that highlighted five New Orleans area chefs. The yearly event raises money for Café’ Reconcile in New Orleans, the Louisiana Hospitality Foundation, and other local charities selected by the award-winning chefs. Our neighborhood winners, Nealy and Keith chose the Covington Food bank and Meals on Wheels to each be the recipients of a thousand dollar donation on behalf of Louisiana Cookin’ magazine’s “Chefs to Watch” program. At the event, each chef was required to prepare 350 servings of one of their signature items. Keith chose a popular item from his menu at Lola. The Creole shrimp and grits. It was simply delicious. The roasted corn grits were flavorful and creamy and the grilled shrimp were succulent, while the shrimp Creole sauce was spot on.
Nealy prepared her, sinful, dark chocolate bouchon with house made caramel and Grand Marnier whipped cream. The name bouchon means cork and that is exactly what this chocolate delight looks like. Don’t be fooled for one minute by the name of this dessert. The rich decadent flavors will knock you back just like the cork from a shaken champagne bottle, and maybe that was her true intent!
After experiencing the two dishes the Frentz’s served that night I decided I had to go back that week to the little green caboose (that doubles as their kitchen) and see what they were creating for dinner. Chefs Nealy and Keith prepared my husband and me an elaborate tasting menu that highlighted several appetizers and entrees. We started with the crab cake remoulade, which was served atop a flavorful slaw. The crab cakes were chock full of lump crabmeat and well seasoned with the addition of fresh red and yellow peppers. But what made them extra special was the crunchy remoulade slaw underneath the crab cake.
Next we had the pan-seared scallops, which were served on a fried green tomato, wilted spinach and drizzled with an aged balsamic reduction. I adore scallops and these were beautifully seared, yet cooked to perfection. The crispy fried green tomato brought a wonderful balance to the delicate, soft nature of the scallop. It was a winning combination of flavors and textures.
Two of my favorite entrees that we tasted were the black drum Lola and the tomato braised short ribs. The drum was pan seared and served with roasted pecans and large lumps of crabmeat and drizzled with roasted pecan butter. My husband, who is not a big fan of drum fish, raved about how delicious this drum fish was. It is a simple fish entrée done right. The other entrée I loved was the braised short ribs, which were served with white bean and bacon cassoulet and sweet collard greens. The meat on the short ribs was heavenly. I loved the way the flavor of the meat mixed with the white beans and the tomato sauce. The only thing that could have made this dish better would have been if it were served on a cold winter night instead of such a sweltering hot summer night!
I know I have been talking only about Lola as a dinner place, but it is known mostly as a lunch hot spot right across from the courthouse. They have great sandwiches and salads for very reasonable prices. I love being able to get half a sandwich, salad and a drink for around ten dollars. My favorite sandwiches are the New Hampshire (sliced brie, ham and apricot preserves on focaccia) and the Bostonian (turkey, bacon, provolone and sundried tomato aioli on whole grain focaccia). All of the breads (and desserts) are homemade, which is easily recognizable from the very first bite of your sandwich. I also recommend their Lola salad, which comes with blue cheese, candied pecans and house made cranberry vinaigrette. For an extra boost of yummy add their “scoop” of fresh chicken salad Vegas.
These two young chefs have already come such a long way in few short years. From where they met, on the line at Brennan’s on Royal Street and selling lasagna at the Mandeville trailhead after Katrina, to owning their own restaurant. I look forward to “watching” them over the next few years as they expand their restaurant to include a refurbished antique dining car (which will be attached to their kitchen/caboose) and, hopefully, a Thursday night to their dinner service.
Butternut Squash Soup
Serves 4-6
2 medium butternut squash – halved with seeds removed
1 medium onion - diced
Olive oil
1-quart chicken stock
1 tsp. dried thyme (or 4 springs fresh)
Salt & pepper to taste
1-pint heavy cream
Preheat oven to 400 degrees
Split squash in half and remove seeds. Rub with olive oil and season w/ salt, pepper & thyme. Roast squash in oven until fork tender about 25-30 minutes. Let cool to room temperature. Sauté onions in pot over medium heat with olive oil until translucent. Discard skin and add squash to pot. Add stock and cream to squash mix and simmer for 10 minutes and adjust seasonings. Using a blender puree until smooth in texture, soup may need additional stock if too thick. Serve and enjoy!
LOLA
517 N. New Hampshire Street
Covington, La. 70433
985-892-4992
Lunch $
M-F 10:30 – 2:30
Dinner $$$$
5:30 – 9:30
(Reservations Highly Recommended)
4 pinecones