Photo by Shamus Pons
Bob and Lelo Kerivan started sharking up the wine industry in 1986. They converted a 75-acre field in Oregon’s Southern Illinois Valley to Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Riesling, Gewertztraminer, and Pinot Gris grapes using new planting and pruning techniques that were unheard of in the United States. “You’re crazy!” exclaimed the experienced growers of the region, but the Kerivans ignored the criticism and marched forward.
As it turns out, the rebellious Kerivans were acting on carefully researched plans that were deeply rooted in European tradition. Lelo was from Germany and proudly boasts, “Every German dreams of having a vineyard.” Her husband Bob was just looking for a new fishing hole when he retired from his Miami job and bought a two-acre home site in Oregon. It was Lelo who recognized the region’s winemaking potential and soon afterward they purchased the field next door for this purpose. Lelo’s son René Eichmann arrived from Germany in 1980 to take a hands-on role in the new family business.
Their vision turned into a tremendous success, as their company Bridgeview vaulted into prominence almost overnight. Today the winery has an annual production of over 100,000 cases, making it one of the largest wineries in Oregon.
I recently spoke with René, the winemaker and vice president of Bridgeview Winery. He is responsible for overseeing virtually every aspect of the business, including the vineyards, winery, and marketing.
What is your recollection of your first wine experience?
My first wine experience was at 18 when I still lived in Germany. We visited a large garden show and there was a vintner from the Nahe region represented. We tasted the wines and ordered wine to be delivered to our home. Then twice a year thereafter they come by your home to visit and taste new wines with you - a really unique concept, and most people order several cases of wine. Also when they deliver the wine they pick up the empty bottles as well. Recycling is big in Germany and was even 30 years ago.
Has your German heritage influenced your winemaking?
My mentor and hands-on teacher was German, so the German style of winemaking is a crucial part of what I do. Following a process that is clean and sterile, and filtering wines as we bottle are all very Germanic things.
What first attracted you to winemaking?
At first there was no attraction, only necessity. In the beginning I was more in the background while we had several winemakers on hire, but I was always involved in some final decisions as to wine style, etc. I took over fulltime in 1990.
Is winemaking more of an art or a science in your opinion?
To me winemaking is always both. There are some things you do by the seat of your pants that are more artistic, and then there is the science part that has to play the role of assuring nothing goes wrong you might regret later.
What do you love most about your job?
The feedback from the public whether positive or negative; I thrive on hearing what people think about our wines
What makes Oregon such a special place to create wine?
Oregon has a new challenge for us every year, and since a quarter of our production is Pinot Noir (my favorite grape) I feel that Oregon is one of the best places to grow and make it. Also our southern Oregon climate makes for a different style that is almost a hybrid between California and the Willamette Valley.
What are the biggest changes you’ve experienced since you started making wine?
As one becomes more seasoned you have more confidence and approach harvest more relaxed. Our grape sources have been very stable, so things are more of a routine with not too many surprises. In the beginning there were a lot of unpredictable things, as when my Dad told me that he bought 200 tons of Merlot the day before the grapes arrived - that was fun!
What other wineries or winemakers do you admire?
Sorry, but no idols on my horizon - just respect for every successful winemaker out there. We are all after the same thing - making good wine that people like.
If you wanted to impress a friend, what cork would you pull?
I drank most of my "gems." I have to collect more in the future, but right now my Bear Creek Claret drinks very fine. Also had some Argyle Pinot Noir ‘04 and ‘05 but killed it at my daughter’s graduation. Right now I have some nice things in my library left; there is some 1997 Cabernet Bear Creek Lot 100 that I would only share with very special guests.
What is your thought process when you enter a wine shop?
When I enter a wine shop I always look for the Oregon selections and always look at price points that the wine are selling at.
What wines are in your rack right now?
My home rack has mainly my own stuff. Bridgeview and Bear Creek as well as some Abacela. A friend works at Concannon in Livermore, and we like their Viognier and Temperanillo.
Thanks to René for taking the time to answer our questions. Under his leadership, Bridgeview has become known for producing moderately priced, gracious wines like their Blue Moon Riesling, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir that comes in a recognizable cobalt-blue bottle. Other lines include Black Beauty Merlot and a premium line that includes Reserve Pinot Gris and Reserve Pinot Noir. They’re available at Rouse’s and other fine wine shops.
Cheers!