For those interested in tasting French reds, or those looking for good red wines for the tight pocket book, look out for Grenache. In fact, shouldn’t everyone know that this red grape varietal is the most widely planted red grape in the world. Grenache is the backbone of most Southern Rhône wines, especially in Châteauneuf-du-Pape where it is typically over 80% of the blend. In Australia it is typically blended in "GSM" blends with Syrah and Mourvèdre. Grenache is also used to make rosé wines in France and Spain, notably those of the Tavel district in the Côtes du Rhône. And the high sugar levels of Grenache have led to its use in fortified desert wines such as Banyuls, and as the basis of most Australian port.
So, why don’t we talk about it? First of all, as Americans, if we are not drinking one of the big three, (Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, or Pinot Noir) we must not be drinking wine at all. For the most part, there are many of us that stick strictly with “what we know” and buy California wines because of the ease we can read labels and understand what we just bought. Reading French labels can be tricky and Spanish ones, which are much easier, are no picnic. Second, I believe that the style of Grenache tends to not be as full-bodied and rich as Merlot, Cabernet and Pinot Noir and right now the American palate is leaning in this directions and let’s face it, these three are so popular because they make some of the best wines in the world. A great joke I have always heard regarding Merlot is that Americans have always consumed it if for no other reason, than because it is easy to say.
So, let’s talk about it! It is generally spicy, berry-flavored and soft on the palate with a relatively high alcohol content; it tends to lack acid, tannin and color, which is why it is usually blended with other grapes. It has a good tolerance to strong winds and is suited for the dry, warm windy climate around the Mediterranean. It requires a long growing season in order to fully ripen and is often one of the last grapes to be harvest, often ripening weeks after Cabernet Sauvignon. The long ripening process allows the sugars in the grape to reach high levels, making Grenache based wines capable of substantial alcohol levels, often north of 15% ABV. This grape grows easy and can grow anywhere making it very suitable for many wine-growing regions all over the world.
Grenache or “Garnacha” in Spain: History tells us that Garnacha “the Spanish synonym” originated in the northern region of Aragon. These are my favorite Grenache based wines for two reasons. They are price friendly and very good! Spain is the 3rd largest country planted to vine many of which have vines ranging from 35 to 100 years of age! The age, combined with the surplus of grapes, makes for high quality, inexpensive wines. The wines tend to have some California style to them with some powerful ripe fruit and big flavors. The bang for the buck ratio is outstanding!
Look out for:
Bodegas Borsao "Vina Borgia" $6
Bodegas Borsao “ Campo de Borja " $7 Bodegas Borsao “ Tres Picos” $15 Bodegas Atteca “Garnacha del Fuego” $7
Grenache in France: When Robert Parker of the Wine Advocate declared that the 2007 vintage of Rhone wines was “the vintage of a lifetime”, Grenachelovers went wild. France is very strict on what grapes you can grow when, where and how and Grenache makes up one part of the big three red grapes of the Rhone (Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre). Like many other places in France, the Rhone is broken down into sub-regions and they are labeled this way. Laws have eased up somewhat and they are now starting to put the blends on the back labels so we can easily see what is in the wine. Being French, the wines seem to have more earth tones with some ripe fruit and finesse. The best examples can be very powerful and very long lived. The major sub-regions are:
Côtes du Rhône: these are the entry level wines for the Rhone and must have at least 50% Grenache in the blend. In excellent vintages such as 2007, they taste much more expensive than they are and can range in price from $10 to $40. Look out for:
2007 Perrin “Côtes du Rhône” $14 2007 Domaine D’Andezon Côtes du Rhône. $13
2007 Grand Veneur “le Champauvins” $18 2007 Coudoulet de Beaucastel “Côtes du Rhône” $40
Vacqueyras: As late as 1990 this regions was classified as Côtes du Rhône, but was changed in the separate region of Vacqueyras. I really like these wines because they drink like upgraded Côtes du Rhônes. Look out for:
2007 Perrin et Fils Vacqueyras les Christins $25
2007 Domaine le Sang des Cailloux Vacqueyras $35-$45
Gigondas: The name of the appellation is of roman origin. Jocunditas means great pleasure and enjoyment in Latin with the town being founded as a recreational site for the soldiers from the Roman Second Legion. Getting its own appellation in 1971, these wines are not as easy to find and are very good!
Look out for:
2007 Domaine de Durban “Gigondas” $23 2006/07 Domaine Pallieres Gigondas $35
Châteauneuf-du-Pape: roughly translates to "The Pope's new castle" the wine of the Pope is the most famous wine in the Rhone and is very collectable and sought after. Although 18 different grapes are allowed, Grenache is the major variety used. You can always spot these wines for the raised glass on the neck of the wines.
Look out for:
2007 Brunier Vieux Telegraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape $85
2007 Grand Veneur Châteauneuf-du-Pape les Origines $55
Grenache in Australia: This was planted in the mid to late 1800s and was the most widely planted grape there until Shiraz overtook it in the mid 1900s. Today it is made on its own but it is more famous in the “GSM” or Grenache, Shiraz, Mourvedre blends. Most bottles will say GSM on the label.
Look out for:
2008 Torbreck Cuvee Juveniles $20
Grenache in California: The California Rhone Rangers are a small group of growers and wine producers that have been producing GSM wines for the last 20 years, but the syrah grape seems to be the main varietal they have had success with. Only a handful of wineries have made some really good Grenache.
Look out for:
Tablas Creek Winery $23-$45
The next time you feel like the grass might be greener in your local wine store. Ask for some something different. Like maybe Grenache!